A historical walk round Vejer

 The cool days of winter are perfect for exploring Vejer’s many historical buildings. Only one problem – it’s easy to get lost. I hope this guided walk will help you find your way around. 



 Although you’ll see the phrase ‘old Moorish town’ used to describe this pueblo, it’s far from the truth. What is true is that Vejer probably acquired its current shape and identity during the Muslim era from 712 to 1264. Unfortunately there are very few remains from this period – all that is left is the beautiful horseshoe gateway at the castle. The inner half has somehow survived the modernising enthusiasm of  later generations.


The horseshoe arch at the castle. Photo: Kiko Reyes

Several eras are important in the history of Vejer. About 3000 years ago, the Tartessians, Celtic-speaking traders, built houses on the sides of the barranco, near to where we now find the Convento of the Conceptionistas.

The Turdetanians followed and the Romans arrived in 209 BC. They stayed until the 5^th century, and were briefly replaced by the Visigoths before the arrival of the Moors. In 1264, the area became Christian again.

Vejer has been a walled town for most of its history. In the seventeenth century, as the risk of invasion by pirates diminished, the walls gradually fell into disrepair, but although some parts were demolished, much of the walled enclosure has remained intact. It was restored between 1975 and 2000 by innovative councils led by the crusading Mayor, Antonio Morillo,   the town’s first historian.

For many centuries, Vejer was part of the estate of the Dukes of Medina Sidonia, but in the 19^th century, the desamortisación laws stripped the Church and aristocracy of their property, which was sold to private buyers.

Vejer was radically reformed after an earthquake hit the town in 1773.  Squalid areas and poky lanes were eliminated and it became easier to walk through the streets.

This walk begins on the Plazuela, though you could also pick it up on the Plaza de España. One of the problems you may encounter is that online maps of Vejer are not very accurate. I recommend the free map from the tourist office, which shows all the street names.




 La Plazuela has gradually emerged as the true heart of Vejer. The Convento San Francisco was built in the 18^th century, replacing an earlier, sixteenth-century building. It was once the centre of a large and thriving community which stretched back up the hill behind it.  In the nineteenth century it was converted to a prison, set on fire by anarchists and later became a shopping centre. It is now a hotel.



The House of the Marqués Tamarón
from La Señora de La Oliva

  Follow La Señora de la Oliva uphill, keeping left on Marqués de Tamarón to the Arco de la Segur.

 On the left, you’ll see the Casa de la Cultura, the former House of the Marqués de Tamarón. It was built in the eighteenth century to an unusual trapezoidal design which accommodated the old walls of the town. It’s open from 10-2 and 5-8 and houses the library, a permanent exhibition about Vejer and regular art exhibitions. When Vejer's new library is completed, this will become the municipal museum.

On the other side of the road, La Bodequita and La Bien Pagá bars were once the stables for the town council.

The Arco de la Segur was one of the four gates which led out of the walled enclosure, and communicated with the coastal road towards Conil. It was built in the tenth century and regularly updated and improved, The coat of arms on the east side belonged to the Mendoza family.

The walls to the left were once obscured by houses, but in the 1980s these were purchased and demolished. Not everyone was pleased about this. The spaces on each side of the road are now used for summer performances.

Turn right onto El Postigo and walk around the Church, the Parroquia del Divino Salvador. There has probably been a place of worship on this site from the earliest times, and the current building incorporates materials from a former mosque.

The building is a marriage of two styles; a Mudéjar building from the 13^th century and a later Gothic addition from the 17^th century. If the tower looks a bit stubby, it’s because the original, higher one toppled in the earthquake and was replaced by a shorter version.

The Church El Divino Salvador

 The interior of the church is a beautiful and fascinating space and well worth a visit. In 1936, it was trashed by Republicans as a protest against the Nationalist rebellion. Open 10-2 and 5-7 Monday to Saturday in the summer.


Outside the church, turn left onto Plaza del Padre Ángel, where you might want to stop for a coffee at the Cafe-bar Bejine.(closed Mondays).


Follow the sign along Castillo towards the Castle, noting on the your right the stained glass of the Palacio Castrillón, an early 20^th century building which housed one of Vejer’s wealthiest families. Its garden is now a restaurant.

The Convent of the Conceptionistas

Before you reach the Castle, you’ll see on your right the Convent of the Conceptionistas. It was built in the sixteenth century as a burial vault for the Amaya family, who unfortunately died before it was completed. Initially, it was occupied by nuns and Franciscan monks, but this experiment in unisex co-habitation was not a success and the men soon moved out to the first Convento San Francisco. 

On the South side, you will see the famous convent arches. These elegant supports were put in place after the earthquake in 1773, and have been photographed endless times. The Convento is now used as a museum of everyday life and culture, open April-October.

Turn right under the arches, then left onto Judería. As the name suggests, this was the Jewish area in the early modern period, and it is now the oldest part of town.

You’ll pass an open archway, which was made when the walls were restored, marking the spot of a former short cut. Beyond it a statue of La Cobijada looks out over the the new town. Her outfit originated in 18^th century Madrid and not with the Moors as is sometimes claimed.

At the other end of Judieria, find La Puerta Cerrada. This gate, which was intended to give prívate access to the castle, was kept locked for many years to exclude pirates who might otherwise have crept up the barranco, the gully down which rainwater flows to the river.

Turn left and ascend Guzman el Bueno to the The Castle (a little to the left). It occupies the highest point of the old part of town and there has probably been a fortification there since the earliest times. The present building, once the Vejer home of the Dukes of Medina Sidonia, is a mixture of historical elements and is now in the hands of three different owners. The Town Council owns two thirds of the castle, which is open to the public during the summer months.

The Castle patio with the Moorish horseshoe arch

A local legend claims that there was once a secret passage leading from the Castle down to the river at La Barca de Vejer.  In the old stable, there is now a museum of local life in the mid-twentieth century. The ramparts are also open and give an excellent view of the town.

The Castle Kitchen

Back down Guzman el Bueno, turn left onto Meson de Animas and follow its twisting path to the Aquilar de Vejer, the flamenco club, in the former Rosario church, a Baroque building which was deconsecrated in the 1960s. During the summer, flamenco shows are held here every weekend.

The Baroque interior of the Peña Flamenca

Turn right along Rosario and then right again down Eduardo Shelly. Turn right along José Castrillón and follow the road to the Arco de la Villa. This arch gave access to the Cuesta de la Barca, for centuries the main road out of Vejer. It was rebuilt in the nineteenth century and lost its medieval identity.

  Beneath the arch is the Plaza de España, the town’s gathering place and the site of many events and celebrations. In the Muslim era, this was the town’s burial place, and it gradually morphed into a place of recreation. It was dominated by the army in the 17^th century, and provided a site for la corrida, bullfights, until the early twentieth century. In the 1950s, it was remodelled and the present fountain was built.

A republic was declared on the Plaza de España in 1932

The Plaza de España is the home of the famous Casa del Califa hotel, one of Europe’s top 100 hotels. Its history is explained on their website:

http://www.lacasadelcalifa.com/en/site/page/history

The Plaza de España (Plaza de los Pescaitos) with the Hotel La Casa del Califa behind.

Turn left up the Mayorazgo steps beside the tower and walk alongside the walls. This is where the bull-run used to begin. Turn left again, negotiate the paved area and take another left under the Arco de Sancho. This gate once led to the Medina Sidonia road. In front of you is the Casa del Mayorazgo.

This eighteenth century house was never the town hall as is sometimes claimed – rather it was the official residence of the estate administrator, who represented the Dukes of Medina Sidonia. It is open to the public from 10-2 and 5-dusk, though there is no notice outside to tell you so. Go through the large doors and you will be given a friendly welcome by the inhabitants.

Cupola of the Mayorazgo tower

Like most grand houses in Andalucia, the Casa del Mayorazgo has two patios; the one in front for the use of the occupants and the one at the rear for servants and utilities. Go through the passage into the rear patio and there you will find the Mayorazgo Tower, a watchtower which dates from the 10^th century. As you climb, you’ll see a small room which was used for shelter by the watchmen.

The Mayorazgo tower tells you everything about the history of Vejer. No pirate could approach without being seen from here. When pirates were sighted, the bell was rung, echoed by all the church bells in town, the population would hurry inside the walls and the gates would be closed. As a result of these defences, the Barbary corsairs who plagued the area never invaded Vejer and unlike the nearby coastal towns it was able to develop as a thriving local centre.

When you leave the tower, return through the Arco de Sancho to the Corredera. This was once used by the army to exercise their horses, but more recently, houses were built on both sides.

The Corredera tower, the last to be built, was used as a beacon tower, part of a chain extending across country. The Corredera has accommodated many public buildings, including a theatre, a cinema and the offices of the electricity company. In the twentieth century, the houses on the north side were removed and the present esplanade was built, giving spectacular views to the north.

 Turn left along the Corredera to return to La Plazuela.

If you would like to know more about the history of Vejer, my book, Vejer de la Frontera: a History, is available in various outlets around town.